St Thomas the Apostle, Doubting Thomas, is said to have founded the Catholic Church in Southern India in 52 AD. There he toiled and tarried, preached and propagated, performed numerous miracles Had a number of hairy escapes from badmashes intent on doing him a bit of no good And made himself useful in many ways. […]Read More The Incredulity of Thomas
I was in a tuk-tuk smoking through Madurai enroute to Madurai International Airport when we careened on two wheels around a corner and puttered past this statue. ”MGR” I said. Well, the tuk-tuk driver stopped, turned in his seat and with a huge grin and the emotion plain in his eye shook me warmly by […]Read More MGR Superstar !
Even by the already interplanetary standards of India Madurai stands out as otherworldly, a bastion of spirituality reflected in buildings and people, the Meenskshi Temple, sacred to the Fish Eyed Goddess, seems to be a sacred portal into another world, pulsing with energy and spreading it’s love over this extraordinary place.Read More Délices d’Archtecture: Madurai
Mohandes K Gandhi was a river to the Indian people and led them with love and compassion to independence. His museum in Madurai seemed worth a visit. Gandhi was a powerful force for peace and his open smiling face seemed to exude the same sense of calm and joyful serenity as the Dalai Lama or […]Read More The Gandhi Museum
When in Madurai there are some culinary delights one has to try; Halwa and jalebi from the Nagapattanam Halwa shop still drawing the crowds 119 years later – Granted it’s an ideal location on the doorstep of the Meenakshi temple. The jalebi is a sweet fried spiral, tasting a little like baklava – but without […]Read More Tasty Madurai Treats
In Ye olde days (the 1980s) India had fabulous graphic art everywhere. Hand painted and drawn signs, advertisements and giant movie posters abounded. They were glorious, and always just a tiny bit strange, out of proportion, really quite large stars making eyes at each other or gazing dreamily into the middle distance, looking as if […]Read More Graphic Art of India
Madurai is the most photogenic place in India. Beautiful locals with soulful smiles, incredible wrought iron, modernist pastel buildings and outlandish graphic art. Our window looks out onto the Meenakshi temple so at around 5 in the morning there is the Quasimodo effect – bells that seem to ring sonorously but interminably. There is also […]Read More Madurai
We’ve been intrigued by the Meenakshi Temple at Madurai since reading an essay on it by William Dalrymple in The Age of Kali. Meenakshi is a form of the goddess Parvati. She is the wombless issue of the Pandyan King Malayadhwaja and his wife Kanchanamala – a gift from Shiva. She is born with three breasts […]Read More The Temple of the Fish-Eyed Goddess