The Indian Museum

We revisited the Indian Museum on Chowringhee,  an amazing shrine to Civilisation, and passed these characters on our way down Sudder Street. The Indian Museum is one of the great museums of the world.  A cathedral to culture and industry.  Vast rooms, one upon another, each the size of ballrooms, pillared, plastered, soaring ceilings, doors […]

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The Idolmakers of the Durga Puja

There is a wonderful cosmos in Kolkata made up of faith infused with fun, straw mixed with clay, bamboo covered in cloth and paint artfully applied to plaster.  Gods and animals, demons and fairies, fruits and flowers, lights, incense and offerings tumble across and over each other on towering bamboo arches that bestride the streets […]

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The Fairlawn, Kolkata

We’ve splurged on The Fairlawn in Kolkata for 2 nights. A splendid old bungalow which makes a bold, persistent and unashamed declaration of love to the colour green. (We are told that old, venerable, recently departed and lately lamented Mrs Smith, the formidable and legendary Lady of the House, had the paintwallahs out each day […]

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Kolkata West Bengal

When the Gods danced the universe into being to the music of time Bengal was their dance floor.  Nowadays, in the rest of the world, that music is heard too rarely.  You might listen to a seashell or eat brown rice and adopt the lotus position for a week, or smell a new born baby, […]

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