We revisited the Indian Museum on Chowringhee, an amazing shrine to Civilisation, and passed these characters on our way down Sudder Street. The Indian Museum is one of the great museums of the world. A cathedral to culture and industry. Vast rooms, one upon another, each the size of ballrooms, pillared, plastered, soaring ceilings, doors […]
Read More The Indian Museum
I was in a tuk-tuk smoking through Madurai enroute to Madurai International Airport when we careened on two wheels around a corner and puttered past this statue. ”MGR” I said. Well, the tuk-tuk driver stopped, turned in his seat and with a huge grin and the emotion plain in his eye shook me warmly by […]
Read More MGR Superstar !
Even by the already interplanetary standards of India Madurai stands out as otherworldly, a bastion of spirituality reflected in buildings and people, the Meenskshi Temple, sacred to the Fish Eyed Goddess, seems to be a sacred portal into another world, pulsing with energy and spreading it’s love over this extraordinary place.
Read More Délices d’Archtecture: Madurai
In Ye olde days (the 1980s) India had fabulous graphic art everywhere. Hand painted and drawn signs, advertisements and giant movie posters abounded. They were glorious, and always just a tiny bit strange, out of proportion, really quite large stars making eyes at each other or gazing dreamily into the middle distance, looking as if […]
Read More Graphic Art of India
We were doing our morning discovery tour of our latest destination – Udupi – South of Mangalore in beautiful Karnataka when we stumbled upon the most fascinating of stone fences – all different types of sculpture and art leading us to a gateway adorned with animals and idols. We peered in with unfeigned interest to […]
Read More Art House in Udupi
The Sacred Cows of Pushkar have it sorted. They wander here and there to designated spots and, confident of their own significance, bellow their arrival, signalling also that it is time for a little snack. Post bellow serious and meaningful eyeball contact is established. The necessary is done. The Universe, (on this occasion assuming […]
Read More Pushkar: Holy Cow !
Varanasi – a splendid, crumbling step-back-in-time. Your feet come out from under you and you tumble into an ancient landscape. You stumble and mumble a mantra and swerve and sway to keep out of the way of the cows, the shopkeepers and the saddhus. Round each corner the narrow lane opens onto a new delight.
Read More Délices d’Architecture – Varanasi
There is a wonderful cosmos in Kolkata made up of faith infused with fun, straw mixed with clay, bamboo covered in cloth and paint artfully applied to plaster. Gods and animals, demons and fairies, fruits and flowers, lights, incense and offerings tumble across and over each other on towering bamboo arches that bestride the streets […]
Read More The Idolmakers of the Durga Puja
Opposite the Krishna Temple, ( where Lord Krishna was born don’t you know). A delightfully dapper devotee, a young person in a hurry (tsk, aren’t they all) ? and ( one for the English teachers and grammar pedants), a misplaced apostrophe.
Read More You are under (grammatically dubious) surveillance: Mathura
We cannot imagine another city to compare with Varanasi. A riot of colour, an olfactory overload, an all-senses blow-out. Slightly jaded after our illness in Bodhgaya we arrived just as the sun had set and we were disappointed not to see magical fairy lights twinkling in the ghats. All was in relative darkness along the […]
Read More Varanasi – a Dante-esque riot to blow your mind