Sravanabalagola

A giant Jain Saint stands meditating on top of a holy hill, 2 hours from Mysore, concrete tendrils winding around his calves as he stands in blissful serenity gazing at the hazy plain below. We took a cab through miles of sugar cane and bananas.  Some ladies were letting the traffic thresh their harvest.   […]

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Graphic Art of India

In Ye olde days (the 1980s) India had fabulous graphic art everywhere.  Hand painted and drawn signs, advertisements and giant movie posters abounded.  They were glorious, and always just a tiny bit strange, out of proportion, really quite large stars making eyes at each other or gazing dreamily into the middle distance, looking as if […]

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Mysore Palace

Mysore has the Palace from central casting. Overwhelmingly beautiful, a melange of styles and colours that come together incredibly well. It’s a pastel wedding cake that perfectly captures the essence of India – a hodgepodge, a mishmash, a series of stratified layers and rings more numerous than any tree or rock, an avalanche of appropriations […]

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Madurai

Madurai is the most photogenic place in India.  Beautiful locals with soulful smiles, incredible wrought iron, modernist pastel buildings and outlandish graphic art. Our window looks out onto the Meenakshi temple so at around 5 in the morning there is the Quasimodo effect – bells that seem to ring sonorously but interminably. There is also […]

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The Western Ghats

Beside the Konkan and the Malabar coasts a lush mountain range lies festooned with tea and coffee plantations, pineapple and rubber farms, speckled deer, giant bananas and tiny weeny monkeys, small towns on precipitous heights, wild elephants, stucco plastered churches that loom over you from atop seriously high hills. Statues of saints, gurus, priests and […]

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