Sorrow into Joy

In India, in between the Sun’s rays and the Moon’s beams the physical and the metaphysical tangle and blur, constantly wavering, shimmering, flickering in and out of focus. Ganesha, Rama and Sita, Krishna and his Gopis, Shiva and Kali and Hanuman walk the streets and enchantment fills the air. Even as one plants ones fleshy […]

The Idolmakers of the Durga Puja

There is a wonderful cosmos in Kolkata made up of faith infused with fun, straw mixed with clay, bamboo covered in cloth and paint artfully applied to plaster. Gods and animals, demons and fairies, fruits and flowers, lights, incense and offerings tumble across and over each other on towering bamboo arches that bestride the streets […]

The Indian Museum-Part 1 (to be continued): Kolkata

The Indian Museum looms imperiously over the corner of Chowringhee and peers slightly scathingly down at the backpacker hangout, Sudder St. Haberdashers, book shops, chai stalls and leather workers line the footpath outside. Saris swirl with blinding colours. Smiles are all around, (though sometimes a tad scary and reddish with the paan-chewing) A row of […]

Overpass Chess and Karom with Aplomb

Chameleons that we are we’d decided to get some Indian kit. (Then no one could guess we’re ferengis…) We were bargained-and-haggled-out so graciously our charming host, Rono took us round to his favourite local emporiums down Resh Behari way. A government- run store and a tiny shop bursting with an excellent variety of anything you […]

The Fairlawn, Kolkata

We’ve splurged on The Fairlawn in Kolkata for 2 nights. A splendid old bungalow which makes a bold, persistent and unashamed declaration of love to the colour green. (We are told that old, venerable, recently departed and lately lamented Mrs Smith, the formidable and legendary Lady of the House, had the paintwallahs out each day […]

Kristen and the Cecil-Jees

It had to happen. Kristen has been discovered, become the lead singer in a cool band and they’re hitting the Bengali circuit. Here are the band in their first publicity shot, just about to head to South Kolkata for their first major engagement.

Putting on the Ritz…err Oberoi… in Kolkata

Our Intrepid Travellers have tea and biscuits with The Grande Dame of Chowringee! And so much more. Kolkata was for several decades the second city of the greatest empire of the modern age. It shows. Colonial grandeur was married to and laid on top of the culture of the most vibrant, passionate, creative people on […]

Kolkata West Bengal

When the Gods danced the universe into being to the music of time Bengal was their dance floor. Nowadays, in the rest of the world, that music is heard too rarely. You might listen to a seashell or eat brown rice and adopt the lotus position for a week, or smell a new born baby, […]