Udupi Idyll: Let’s Dance !

Udupi, Karnataka is a temple town, a place of pilgrimage and prayer, with rather amazing temple chariots.  Rooly trooly chariots of the Gods. It is a charming place but we have a terrible, terrible confession to make.  We know that in your eyes we are like a cross between Scott of the Antarctic, Edmund Hillary, […]

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Uma and Us

We had just finished our spicy Goan fish curry and were sipping a particularly inoffensive post prandial Sula Sauv Blanc when…a statuesque blonde came into the Dropadi restaurant. We attempted nonchalance but it’s not everyday that a sparkling-eyed celebrity sits next to you and starts chatting. For the sake of remaining incognito we respected that […]

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Bears, Buffaloes and Butterflies

The Tang of Luang Prabang After 12 hours in a bus on a death-defying mountain road sustained only by our collective suspension of disbelief in the laws of gravity, and by many, many novenas, confessions of guilt and beggings for forgiveness, remembrance of sins of omission and commission, Ave Maria’s, Stations of the Cross and […]

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The Road to Luang Prabang

Correction: The looooooong and winding road to Luang Prabang Bing and Bob weren’t onboard but there was certainly a plethora of Dorothy Lamours complete with sarongs, (though smaller, browner and marginally less glamorous). We were picked up in the VIP chauffeur-driven cattle truck and bumped merrily along to the bus station. The usual Security Committee […]

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Laotian Loonies

One of the many great delights of being abroad is the exposure it gives you to people that, on reflection, make one feel comparatively balanced and sane. These are three such encounters. Firstly some excellent post-prandial advice from the delightful Indian Laotian family (originally from Pondicherry) who run the excellent Nishi restaurant in Luang Prabang. […]

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Chaos in Laos

The intricacies of getting a Thai visa in Vientiane make Maurits Escher’s stairs seem like a small folding step ladder.  One moment you’re confidently striding upwards, the next dangling from monkey bars above a pit of writhing snakes. There are religiously special times for a cascading series of spectacularly badly defined but rigorously upheld procedures. […]

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