Overpass Chess and Karom with Aplomb

Chameleons that we are we’d decided to get some Indian kit. (Then no one could guess we’re ferengis…) We were bargained-and-haggled-out so graciously our charming host, Rono took us round to his favourite local emporiums down Resh Behari way. A government- run store and a tiny shop bursting with an excellent variety of anything you […]

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The Fairlawn, Kolkata

We’ve splurged on The Fairlawn in Kolkata for 2 nights. A splendid old bungalow which makes a bold, persistent and unashamed declaration of love to the colour green. (We are told that old, venerable, recently departed and lately lamented Mrs Smith, the formidable and legendary Lady of the House, had the paintwallahs out each day […]

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Morality Mosaics

Yes, it’s true, we lied to you.  Here we are luxuriating in the City of Kali, having wiped the dust of SE Asia from our sandals, turning our longing gazes west along the Grand Trunk Road and then to magical Rajasthan and beyond and we gave you to believe that we had done with the […]

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Kolkata West Bengal

When the Gods danced the universe into being to the music of time Bengal was their dance floor.  Nowadays, in the rest of the world, that music is heard too rarely.  You might listen to a seashell or eat brown rice and adopt the lotus position for a week, or smell a new born baby, […]

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Dislocated Book Report: The Glass Palace

We’re hooked on the Bengali writer Amitav Ghosh. We love the way he seamlessly weaves bizarre (but largely true) history, colourful and enormously engaging characters, exotic countries, elaborate customs and endlessly fascinating linguistics together to create an intricately woven fabric that shimmers and glistens and changes even as your eye takes it in. Once again […]

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